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Paris Fashion Week

Elie Saab AW18

Elie Saab AW18 Getty

Scoring a grunge audio backdrop – think cello Nirvana followed by Radiohead's Creep – for his Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, Elie Saab was way more upbeat than his soundtrack would suggest, with 'Bouquets D'Hiver' blooming across the runway. Dark and mysterious – yes, decadently opulent – always, but for this season, with an intoxicating energy and alluring glamour that hit all the right notes.

Weaving the fabric of dreams through his gowns is a Saab sweet spot, and the designer didn’t disappoint, with Victoriana fairytale and folkloric elements spun through in a flurry of ornate embroidery, fringing, feathers, jewels, guipure and ruffles on just about every look. More high-glamour than grunge, nuanced rock-chick vibes danced through proceedings via over-the-knee boots, short top hats, draped neck scarves and sunglasses. And, in a nod to the logo-mania trend, 'S' motifs formed patterning on dresses and blouses – a new foray for the designer into the hugely covetable monogramming arena.

Despite some day elements – a denim-effect, studded leather jacket or a powder-puff pink embellished sweater – after-hours is the Saab signature, and the designer served up a complete wardrobe to take his woman from red carpet through to cocktail hour and every occasion in between with his finely tuned mix-tape of finesse and flair.

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  • Elie Saab AW18 Getty
  • Elie Saab AW18