An alfresco show was just what the doctor ordered on the sunniest day of Paris Fashion Week, although by the Givenchy Spring/Summer 2017 presentation's starting time (officially 8pm, but it was more like 8:45pm by the time the label's official Instagrammer of the night, Kim Kardashian, took her seat) there was a definite autumnal chill in the air. So much so that the crowd wrapped around the vast square runway in the Jardin des Plantes had tucked itself underneath the silver foil Mylar blankets placed on each seat, producing an almost apocalyptic mirrored sea and a crinkling symphony to accompany.
Similarly conceptual were the models' hairstyles, sculpted flat against their heads, rendering them almost indistinguishable, although Riccardo Tisci's muse, Mariacarla Boscono, and Kendall Jenner – seen on the runway for the first time since New York Fashion Week – were still identifiable. Clothing-wise, the designer pushed the boundaries of tailoring by presenting blazers with zip-on coat tails and chunky cargo pockets teamed with extreme flared trousers. On occasion the suits came jewelled and embellished for after-hours appeal. Meanwhile, cream silk shift dresses were boldly printed with agate motifs in orange, pink and purple. Oversized agates later appeared on chunky necklaces to dress up suiting and simple pencil dresses.
Layering was a predominant feature, with long-sleeved cocktail dresses with sweetheart necklines in pink satin, orange lurex or black crêpe layered over sportier mesh slips and worn with ribbed socks and patent strappy heels in a variety of on-tone shades. Things took a turn for the Seventies with a series of bodycon printed dresses in orange and brown hues, complete with pointed collars and flared sleeves, and the show concluded with a group of one-shoulder shifts with high necks and fringing cascading down their lengths.
Bags-wise it was all about the oversize squashy tote, which appeared in bold stripes or exotic skins.