A fresh slot on the Paris Fashion Week schedule and Isabel Marant has a new lease of life. Not that the designer's rock ‘n’ roll-cool collections were staid, but her new position on the calendar – 8pm on Thursday evening – seems to have added more weight to the label and a shedding of the tried-and-tested formula for something exciting and unexpected. Happily, the insouciant vibe of the house remained but, in a season that celebrates the female form, new on the menu was an unabashed sense of femininity evident through floral prints, corseted waists and plenty of frills.
Even the trousers, normally all skinny and crafted from leather, took on womanly shapes with paper bag waists or frilled and flared hems and were worn with flouncy blouses tucked in or ruffled crop tops. And while there were a few mini dresses in the line-up, midi blousons reigned supreme, worn with cinched waists and strappy metallic sandals. Handkerchief hemlines are having a renaissance – here they appeared on one-shoulder numbers printed with pink and purple flowers, as modelled by Edie Campbell.
Boyish accents were found in cropped boiler suits with cargo detailing but even they came softly draped and waisted – a sure sign that feminism is alive and well in fashion.