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Paris Fashion Week

Kenzo SS17

Kenzo SS17 Getty

While Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s Resort 2017 collection for Kenzo reminisced their own experiences of the Nineties club scene, for Spring/Summer 2017 the designer duo looked back to 1977 and Kenzō Takada’s Studio 54-staged show, which saw Jerry Hall walk and Grace Jones perform.

Triggered by an invitation to work with the archive of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez – his Polaroids featured as prints on oversized T-shirts and glossy separates – the disco-ready line-up of metallic miniskirts, vinyl jumpsuits and sequin-tastic tank dresses felt anything but retro, a side helping of utilitarian outerwear giving it a good dose of contemporary cool.

With the likes of Edie Campbell, Adwoa Aboah, Damaris Goddrie, Lineisy Montero and Vanessa Moody on the runway, which, incidentally, was flanked by performance artists – some nude, some on stilts, all painted stone-like shades – posing perfectly still as though statues, just as in those Studio 54 days, this felt like a clique that everyone will want to be in.