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Paris Fashion Week

Kenzo SS18

Kenzo SS18 Getty

Set within the courtyard of a historical school, Kenzo's gender-merged Spring/Summer 2018 collection, entitled 'The Red String of Fate', was a far cry from its studious surroundings; this season, Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon swapped the serious topics of previous seasons – politics, climate change – in favour of having a little more fun. Split into two acts, 'Building The Bamboo Houses' and 'Love Letter to Sayoko', each was dedicated to a specific muse, model Sayoko Yamaguchi and musician Ryuichi Sakamoto respectively, with an interlude of aerial dancers that cascaded against the building walls and separated the two.

An entirely Asian line-up of Korean, Japanese and Chinese models not only called upon founder and designer Kenzo Takada's roots, but also helped to reflect the collection's influential muses in the show, all the while embracing cultural diversity. Unveiled after the first act of buttoned-up men's suiting, an assertive womenswear collection merged nostalgic and vintage influences with the promise of the future – think deconstructed patchwork dresses, optical prints and frilled shorts under oversized tailoring. The fun, however, was in the layering, with bandeau tops and sheer slips in satin and organza making an extra-playful update to sports jerseys. Needless to say, school was most certainly out for summer.

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