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Paris Fashion Week

Miu Miu AW18

Miu Miu AW18 Getty

With actress Elle Fanning bookending the show, and designer Marc Jacobs and Game Of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie cheering her on from the front row, this was Miu Miu taking a different turn for Autumn/Winter 2018 from its more bookish, preppy, previous season, landing a vivacious and even kooky collision of '80s-meets-late-'50s. Strong clothes for big personalities, it was a line-up that played on proportions, exaggerated forms, which was deftly encapsulated by the oversized, mussed-up, slept-in beehives topping many of the looks.

If at times the combination of statement hair, über-winged eyes and smudgy lipstick was a little reminiscent of the Amy Winehouse school of beauty, that was where the similarities ended, as, overall, there was a sense that Miuccia Prada was trying to tease out an idea of individuality, of the characters of those in her stellar show. Adwoa and Kesewa Aboah, Slick Woods, Kaia Gerber, Edie Campbell, Georgia May Jagger – each cast member, each look, telegraphed an entirely different proposition from the designer's megawatt, retro-tastic mindscape.

Impactful from open to close, a dizzying array of outerwear came in all shapes and sizes, from belted trenches to rounded-shoulder tweed bombers, pleather-looking raincoats and short exaggerated shoulder jackets – often styled with stonewashed high-waisted jeans featuring two mismatched buckled belts – while fluffy bright mohair sweaters, neck scarves and thick white socks worn with Mary Janes piqued at nostalgia. Dresses came served strapless, brocade and midi, polka dot and a little slouchy, tweed, floral-printed and pencil; blown-up houndstooth and checks were rife, as were bright jolts of colour – teal, purple and red – peppered throughout.

A collection as gregarious as it was gritty, with both wild and wistful tendencies, this was Prada's playful side let loose to reminisce and reconstruct the past for tomorrow's Miu Miu girl.