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Paris Fashion Week

Saint Laurent AW16

Saint Laurent AW16-Paris Fashion Week Getty

If the rumour mill regarding Hedi Slimane's last season at Saint Laurent was already in motion then by show date it was positively whirring. But a change of venue, restricted guest list and special touches, like seats boasting attendees' name plaques, instead indicated that this was a couture show of sorts, rather than a departure - at least for now.

The designer, who has always kept a low profile but has – throughout his tenure – made some bold changes (remember his decision to drop the 'Yves' back in 2012?) made another statement with his Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. Although his rock 'n' roll sensibility was most certainly still intact, these were clothes for mature, sophisticated women and not wild teens.

Teamed with his signature spangly mini dresses were sheer stockings and gold chokers, prom dresses morphed into elegant ruffled creations, leather skinnies were swapped out for black satin cigarette pants and, instead of oversize military parkas, there were power-shouldered tuxedo jackets. Even the mussed-up hair and walk-of-shame make-up were replaced with sleek chignons and glossy red lips. The Eighties were definitely back in the room, and so, it seemed, was Yves.