For his second season at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello continued his Eighties razzmatazz with a line-up of glossy, power-shouldered leather jackets, ruched skirts, plunging mini dresses and a series of slouchy knee-high boots that spawned a thousand Instagram posts and long-as-your-arm waiting lists. This time around the all-black-everything was broken up with a dose of caramel, featured on ruffled asymmetrical gowns (accessorised with single oversized shearling gloves they added modernity to the retro-inspired looks), chocolate minis rendered even mini-er courtesy of drawstring pulls, and winter white by way of fluffy mohair roll necks.
Velvet is undoubtedly the fabric of the season, seen here on a box-shouldered mini dress printed with a single purple flower, silk-lapelled smoking jackets and a slim-cut, full-sleeved gown that would have been demure save for a crystal-edged thigh-high slit and a pair of those ruched boots, completely studded in crystals.
The result was a heady mix of glamour and toughness that was more haute and less street than previous Saint Laurent collections under Vaccarello’s predecessor, Hedi Slimane. That said, there were plenty of ‘house staples’ that carried on Slimane’s legacy, including skinny jeans, black tank vests, slim suits and tough biker boots, and what looked like a reference to Tom Ford’s Spanish-inspired off-the-shoulder blouses circa Autumn/Winter 2001. Nostalgic yet relevant, definitely a combination we’re on board with.