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Paris Fashion Week

Saint Laurent SS17

First up in a season of debuts at big name brands in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello welcomed showgoers to what will be the new Saint Laurent headquarters – mid-restoration – in the heart of the Left Bank with the iconic 'YSL' logo illuminated in neon and suspended from a crane in the courtyard; cue Instagram mania. Was this a statement-making move from the new creative director to disassociate himself from his predecessor and that decision to drop the 'Yves' back in 2012?

While Vaccarello may never answer that question formally, he has made it be known that he was quick to visit the archives on being appointed, and that it was an Yves Saint Laurent leopard-print dress from 1982 that inspired the Spring/Summer 2017 collection. It was that dress – reimagined in black leather – that opened the show; its plunging sweetheart neckline, puffed shoulders, sculpted bodice and mini hemline then continuing to reappear in various guises.

Le Smoking (the tuxedo suit first created by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966) was the subject of new interpretation, too – skinny and with strong, pointed shoulders. And while boyfriend jeans and jackets – in denim, leather and tapestry – provided the ultimate in dressed-down chic, '80s disco-ready dresses in gold lamé, patchwork lace, sequins and leopard spots mean that dressing up is going to be a whole lot of fun.