Kicking off the last Monday of the month-long round of Autumn/Winter 2017 shows was Stella McCartney, whose quirky invitation (a colourful bathtime contraption), star-studded FROW (Arizona Muse, Natalia Vodianova, Salma Hayek, Pamela Anderson, Lily Donaldson, Derek Blasberg, Carolyn Murphy) and glossy collection was enough to lift the dreary, rain-drenched Parisian leg of the journey.
A self-professed 'horse girl', McCartney was inspired by the British equestrian scene, unveiling an initial line-up of checked tailoring in a new silhouette – dress sleeves were blown up and elongated, trousers ballooned around the hips and jackets came boxy around the shoulders but pinched-in at the waist. Meanwhile, a print motif by 18th-century painter George Stubbs appeared on a silk dress, "bringing in scenes of legendary power and beauty playing on both Britain's history and heritage".
There was a utilitarian feel to separates – belted safari jackets, extra-long riding pants and coats with metal poppers came in shades of tan, biscuit, army green and burgundy, while raw denim jumpsuits were belted and ready for action. Elsewhere, pencil dresses and slim-knit tops featured built-in moulded bras, proving that as tomboyish as Stella's collections tend to be, a woman's curves are always celebrated. A final parade of evening dresses in sheer embroidered tulle and layered with sumptuous lace rounded off the collection. Accessories-wise it was all about glove bags in faux leather and metal toe-cap shoes with exaggerated soles.