If Spring/Summer 2023 teaches us one lesson about style, it’s that less is sometimes more. A quiet kind of luxury reigns across the board this season, honing in on elevated materials, timeless silhouettes and versatile hues above all. Matthieu Blazy’s sophomore collection at Bottega Veneta sees ensembles that appear effortlessly understated, yet boast remarkable craft beneath the surface. Elsewhere, the likes of Celine, Khaite and The Row play to their house codes with investment-worthy collections that look beyond ephemeral trends. Nevertheless, the momentum of the Y2K resurgence remains strong, continuing to make appearances in the form of cargo-style pockets, low-slung waistlines and retro denim.
SS23’s key collections take a quieter approach to style, leaning into pieces that whisper rather than shout. Bold branding is traded in for a focus on exquisite craftsmanship and a chic, neutral palette – the modus operandi at houses like The Row, Chloé, Totême and more.
From Saint Laurent’s trench coats to Miu Miu’s tool-belt pockets and Bottega Veneta’s trompe l’oeil jeans, leather is undergoing a utilitarian transformation, with designers favouring organic colours that will stand the test of time – and only get better with wear.
Nineties-and-noughties mania continues its ubiquity into SS23, this time prompting the return of grungy, slim-fit jeans and maxi skirts as well as ultra-baggy styles and cargo-pocket detailing.
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