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The Wrist List: Green Watches

Feature: Long Read
Words by ROBIN SWITHINBANK

Of all the reasons that fine watches with green dials have cropped up in such vast numbers this year, one will surely endure – an appetite for self-expression. No question, the search for wide open spaces in the great post-pandemic reboot plays its part, but when that sentiment subsides, in a sea of black, white and blue dials, a green dial will still retain an allure of its own.

Take for instance Rolex, the green and gold watchmaking superpower, which continues to offer pieces with green details. The Submariner with a forest green ceramic bezel is affectionately known as the ‘Kermit’, while the palm-motif dial of the Datejust 36 has quickly become a milestone form in the brief period since it was announced earlier this year.

Rolex Datejust 36 Green Dial

Rolex Datejust 36

Rolex Datejust 36 Green Dial

This is why a piece such as Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K – with its spring green dial and bezel, plus an optional matching green and gold fabric strap – has attracted so much attention. The fact that it happens to be the only solid gold version of Tudor’s perpetually voguish diver’s watch helps too, of course, while fans of the luxury wristwatch brand may be keen to know that Tudor’s takeover of the Harrods Fine Watches atrium continues until the end of October.

Sure, Harrods may have a bias for a rich green hue, but there’s something so timeless and rejuvenating about the trans-seasonal shade. Case in point, the limited-edition Harrods x Bamford Watch Department GMT, with its green seconds hand, green and black day/night second time zone scale and green cordura canvas strap. The watch is limited to just 10 pieces in this first ever collaboration between Harrods and Bamford Watch Department – but there are also plenty of designs to choose from in the wider collection.

Just as much a waypoint is Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin in platinum with a shimmering green dial. Audemars Piguet’s famously low volumes means that this vivid edition of its icon became one of the world’s most in-demand watches the moment it dropped – cue ‘green with envy’ headlines. The green-eyed will always have options, though. IWC Schaffhausen has dipped its evergreen Portugieser Chronograph in a zesty shade of emerald; TAG Heuer added olive detailing to the lightweight titanium version of its newly refined Aquaracer Professional 300; and high-end Swiss independent H. Moser & Cie continues to create oasis-like green fumé – or smoked – dials for pieces such as its funky Streamliner Centre Seconds.

A green tint can also offer a moment to express support for the planet – a number of brands have paired the colour with conservation or sustainability initiatives. Panerai’s Luminor Marina eSteel Verde Smeraldo, for example, has 89 grams of recycled steel in it, equivalent to 58.4% of the watch’s total weight.

ROBIN SWITHINBANK


"Clearly, going green is the fil rouge running through watch design today, creating a verdant stage on which to express your own taste and style, and, quite often, your own eco-credentials, too."

  • Bamford product shot on green marble

    Bamford Watch Department Harrods x Bamford GMT

  • Tag product shot on green marble

    TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300

  • Panerai product shot on green marble

    Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel™ Verde Smeraldo

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