Fragrance FAQs Answered by the Leading Names in the Game

Words by Jennifer George

How do you make a perfume last all day long? And what exactly does it mean when we talk about ‘notes’ in scents? These are just two of the most frequently asked questions in fragrance, not just according to experts but also ChatGPT, when we asked the programme what some of those commonly asked questions were. To answer them we turned to three renowned perfumers in luxury fragrance, for their authoritative answers to the questions on everyone’s lips.

How do I choose a fragrance that suits my personality?

Erwin Creed, who is the 8th generation Creed (the brand was founded by James Henry Creed in 1760) to run the brand with his father Olivier, knows a thing or two about fragrance, to put it mildly. “Each perfume at The House of Creed has a different story, and each can be incredibly powerful at enhancing how you feel or altering your mood.” When choosing which one – whether Creed or otherwise – would suit your personality, he suggests “consider[ing] how you want the perfume to make you feel. Each ingredient is like a language and can bring a different energy, feeling or colour. When you can define how you want to feel, you can edit your choice down.” Citruses, for example, can bring a sense of vitality, woods, more spirituality and stability. “However, if you don’t know how you want to feel,” he adds, “just explore. You’ll know when you find the one by trying it on your skin - this will bring the perfume to life for you.”

How can I make my perfume last longer?

Alberto Morillas, the fragrance icon who founded Mizensir in 1999 suggests that wearing perfume on the skin, “in areas of pulsation such as the wrist, the neck and behind the ears” will intensify the fragrance, as will any warm parts of the body. “Never rub, just let the perfume dry,” he adds.

Spraying onto your clothes, he says, “will be more neutral but longer lasting, and you’ll be able to smell the perfume as you move.” So a mix of both spritzing on your skin and clothes should provide a long lasting, intensified scent.

Jo Malone London

Myrrh & Tonka Cologne Intense (100ml)

$215.00

Mizensir by Alberto Morillas

Golden Oud Eau de Parfum (100ml)

$375.00

Widian

x Harrods London Extrait de Parfum (50ml)

$390.00

Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum (70ml)

$335.00

Guerlain

Tobacco Honey Eau de Parfum (200ml)

$595.00

What are ‘notes’ in fragrance and how do they interact?

Alberto Morillas tells us that working with notes and creating a perfume “is an alchemy, a question of balance, between natural notes and high-tech synthetic notes that give the compositions something more modern and unique, something that is difficult to reproduce.” Balancing those notes is key to creating a brilliant product.

Juliette Karagueuzoglou, a renowned perfumer who recently worked with Charlotte Tilbury to create one of her new fragrances, Magic Energy but has also produced scents for brands like Lancôme and Yves Saint Laurent, explains that “the notes that make up a fragrance are classified by intensity and olfactory family, as each note has its own olfactory universe.” In terms of intensity, they are classified into three families she says. “Top notes, which are the most volatile, reach us immediately. The heart notes are at the centre of the fragrance's composition, lasting for a few hours. In Magic Energy for example this is cypress, which liberates a strong energy. And then base notes come last and stay for hours or even days but can also be used to “fix” the rest of the fragrance.”

Are there any natural or sustainable fragrance options?

Just like in the larger world of beauty (or any industry, for that matter) the word ‘sustainable’ can mean many things. In fragrance, it often refers to the ingredients used in the perfume, the materials used for packaging, and options like refills being made available. Luckily, the industry as a whole is making changes to ensure products are improving in those fields.

“We pride ourselves on creating perfumes with a high natural content and go through a lot of effort to source ingredients from producers who ensure sustainability” says Irwin Creed, “not only with regards to environmental issues but with the social aspects of the community as well. An example of this is our sandalwood oil supplier, which operates a comprehensive environmental and social protection programme in several areas of Sri Lanka, driving a sustainable supply chain with a positive impact at all levels.” He adds that Creed source through independent channels so have a completely transparent and ethical supply chain.

Any tips on applying perfume effectively?

“My favourite place to apply perfume is behind the nape of my neck,” says Creed. “It’s warm, oily and as you go through your day your movement can re-release the scent and trigger a reminder of what you have worn that day.” It is also suggested that spritzing from a slight distance will increase the surface area the juice hits – the more space, the more scent.

“I often take my perfume of choice out in my travel atomiser too” he adds, “if I want to re-energise what I’m wearing throughout the day. It will still be there, but sometimes it’s nice to relive it again.”

What are the best perfumes for the summer?

What’s best for the summer “really depends on where you are and how you want to feel with your fragrance,” says Morillas. “Green fragrances often work so well in summer because they have fresh, luminous notes that bring freshness and energy. For example, at Mizensir we have Vert Empire, which is the ideal fragrance for summer because it provides a refreshing effect and sensation.”

Erwin Creed suggests that for a summer evening, “when you need a little grandeur” try Creed’s Queen of Silk. “This perfume is as luxurious and lavish as silk itself. The fruity Chinese osmanthus takes you into a creamy and intoxicating heart of tuberose with a dry down of opulence of vanilla and incense.”

Juliette Karagueuzoglou suggests that “a refreshing cocktail” of a fragrance is great for the summer months. “I immediately think of Magic Energy, composed of citrus notes like bergamot and aromatic notes like cypress, perfect to sublimate and boost us for a sunny summer day!”