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Harrods Magnified: Innovation

Skincare Meets Make-up: The Modern Beauty Formula

Feature: Long Read
Words By Nateisha Scott

Concentrated routines, microbiome-friendly skincare, and the rise of skin minimalism—if there is one thing that has surfaced in recent years it’s that our skin needs less. Pulling away from daily make-up and 5+ product regimes, we instead found ourselves free from camouflaging our concerns and treating them head on. In this light, our skin’s health has taken upmost priority and as we return to the hustle and bustle of life again, it seems that we are still considering the impact that our lives have on our skin. It’s no wonder, then, that this has brought rise to a new trending category: hybrid cosmetics. Its skincare meets make-up, a fusion that streamlines our vanities, saves time, and still prioritises the ingredients that our complexions crave. What more could you want? It’s time to shake up your beauty bag and introduce products that also care about what’s underneath. 

The New Landscape

“Consumers no longer want to choose between beauty and the well-being of their skin. These all-in-one products are better suited to our lifestyle. We are looking for immediate and at the same time lasting solutions that will help us to save time and taking advantage of makeup to treat our concerns whether that’s wrinkles, breakouts, excess sebum, or dilated pores” explains Nathalie Broussard, Clé de Peau Beauté’s Scientific Communication Director.  

Let’s just say, your foundation will no longer just be about coverage, it will now be infused with barrier boosting skincare properties. Your lipstick, while bursting with colour, is also infused with nourishing and conditioning ingredients. Between tinted lip balms, lightweight foundations, and serum-infused BB creams, cosmetics is steering towards a whole new category. Shop some of our favourites below. 

Womans face

The Skincare-Cosmetic Formula

Traditionally make-up has focused on the pigment payoff as opposed to how it can work in tandem with our skin. Switching from concealing to caring, Broussard highlights what is now considered for a cosmetics formula to benefit skin, “a formulation typically features a hydrating base enriched with nourishing ingredients, that is then enhanced with actives to target specific concerns.” These ingredients often consist of glycerine (which forms a protective layer to cushion against environmental elements and loss of moisture), emollients (which create a protective film on the surface to help trap moisture) and emulsifiers (carriers that help deliver active ingredients to the epidermis).  

Formulas targeting concerns contain a little extra, with active ingredients layered in, such as in Dior’s Forever Skin Glow Foundation. Alongside its 42 shades, it is formulated with hydrolyzed viola tricolor extract to moisturise the skin, iris florentina extract to help eliminate dryness and hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract to brighten and treat oily complexions (due to its mineral pigment). The same can be said for Clé de Peau Beauté Radiant Lip Gloss, infused with argan oil to condition, safflower oil to moisturise and pearl agents packed with a light-reflecting pigment that bursts with colour.  

 

Ingredients To Consider

With one of the many benefits to hybrid cosmetics being the time saved, it is still important to acknowledge the hardworking ingredients that go into these formulas to help combat concerns. “Lately many actives are being put under the spotlight and amongst them we have found particular active ingredients that aren’t necessarily new but have been recognized for their efficacy and treatment such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and retinol” Broussard shares. “Not only that but we have found ingredients such as natural floral extracts, vitamin E, proteins and amino acids that nourish, condition, moisturise and even brighten the skin to be increasing in popularity”.  

  • Liquid foundation make-up swatch

    Vitamin C

    Essential for: antioxidant protection to rebuild healthy collagen fibers and as a skin-brightening agent to give it a healthy glow. 

  • Pink eye-shadow make-up swatch

    Vitamin A

    Essential for: working on the texture of the skin, helping to smooth and even out skin tone.

  • Pink cream make-up swatch

    Vitamin E

    Essential for: moisturising the skin and as an antioxidant, protects the skin from UV damage.

  • Liquid foundation make-up swatch

    AHAs

    Essential for: improving skin texture, better penetration of active ingredients and restoring moisture.

  • Pink metallic cream make-up swatch

    Salicylic Acid

    Essential for: reducing oiliness and keeping breakouts at bay underneath make-up.

  • Powder make-up swatch

    Glycerine

    Essential for: absorbing moisture and keeping skin hydrated.

A Skin-Boosting Selection

Finding The Balance

Creating a hybrid product isn’t easy, in fact a major formulation challenge means the texture must provide the right amount of care and comfort while the cosmetic curation needs to provide an optimal colour spread and a natural finish. “The dosage between pigments and active ingredients is also quite perilous, too much pigment can provide a rough and non-slippery texture that can leave skin feeling dry and uncomfortable and can even overpower the active ingredients” Broussard adds.  

Like the fine balance in formulation, there is also consideration in your routine. If you find that your skin is becoming sensitive or irritable with products infused with active ingredients (such as retinol) then opting for a gentler alternative or removing the skincare product from your routine is recommended. The same can be said for vitamin C or mild exfoliating actives. The key is to consciously integrate products according to your concerns and let the highly devised formula do the talking. 

 

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