The Little Black Dress: A Guide to the Timeless Classic

Words by Sophia Miller

The little black dress: three words that rouse appreciation from fashion insiders and enthusiasts alike. A style beloved for its understated elegance and innate versatility. But what makes the perfect LBD? Which brands do it best? And how do the Harrods editors style theirs? Read on for our comprehensive guide to the ultimate wardrobe hero.

Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, black was largely associated with mourning clothes. That was until 1926, when a drop-waist CHANEL shift dress in black crepe de Chine appeared in the pages of American Vogue, which boldly declared it ‘the frock that all the world will wear’. This turned out to be an apt prophecy: black was swiftly embraced by the likes of Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy, the latter of whom went on to create the iconic satin evening dress worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. No longer strictly sombre, the little black dress became synonymous with Hollywood chic.

During the ’80s and ’90s, more memorable black dresses were seen on the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, this time in figure-hugging jersey as designers like Helmut Lang, Azzedine Alaïa and Donatella Versace experimented with contemporary materials and silhouettes. As for today? The LBD remains one of fashion’s ultimate staples, with each new season bringing fresh iterations of a classic.

Today, there are few hard-and-fast rules where little black dresses are concerned. Usually, an LBD will be mini or midi in length (hence the ‘little’) and simple in cut – think less is more. As for material? Velvet, silk, lace and jersey all go. The common denominator is versatility. The perfect little black cocktail dress should fit like a glove and be easily styled for a range of different occasions. The fear of outfit repetition need not apply: this is a piece with fail-safe appeal – the dress you reach for when you don’t know what to wear.

As for which little black dresses to buy now? The fashion world is your oyster. While devotees of the Audrey Hepburn school of style may gravitate towards straight-cut shift dresses – see Prada and Valentino – today’s designers offer all manner of silhouettes. At Saint Laurent you’ll find slinky long-sleeved iterations in jersey or lace, while Givenchy and Alaïa use black as the perfect backdrop to their signature sense of structure. Embellishments are, equally, very much encouraged – party season can invite a little fun in the form of beading, lace, feathers or sequins, all the more chic against a black backdrop.

When it comes to little black dress styling ideas, let these chic celebrities be your inspiration. For a done-but-undone look, follow Alexa Chung’s lead and layer an asymmetric LBD with a suede blazer and minimal mules – an oversized denim or leather jacket will offer a similar cool-girl vibe. For a dressier party look, satin minis à la Margaret Qualley’s custom CHANEL always look chic paired with monochrome black accessories and silver jewellery. The real styling rule, though, is that anything goes. When you let your personality lead, your little black dress becomes a blank canvas.