Words by Sophia Miller
8th October 2026
There’s been a lot of talk about what femininity means in fashion of late. Is it a voluptuously full skirt, printed with watercolour florals and gathered at the waist? A tightly laced corset? A frothy prairie blouse? A precariously high heel? It’s none of those things, according to Anthony Vaccarello. After a decade at the helm of Saint Laurent, the designer decided to strip things all the way back to basics for the Winter 26 collection. Structure and construction – the basic principles of the tailoring that the house has always been known for – are front of mind, with ‘Le Smoking’ posited as the ultimate symbol of freedom and fluidity. Meanwhile, glamour is never far behind: a new silicone-coated lace and generously oversized shearling coats inject glamour to the androgyny, inspired by some of Vaccarello’s favourite icons of the silver screen. The message? Femininity is a thing of many facets. Why box it in?
Le Smoking is Saint Laurent’s ultimate masterstroke, and 60 years after its debut, it remains key to the house’s visual identity. This season, 14 new suits join the line-up, all pitch black and cut in Vaccarello’s deft, precise silhouette: strong, sloping shoulders and a narrow yet defined waist. Inspired by the late 1970s and early 1980s, yes, but also somehow totally modern – especially styled, like on the runway, with a slicked-back bun and minimal accessories.
While Saint Laurent’s Winter 26 tailoring has somewhat of a slouch about it, lace provides the more outwardly feminine contrast – as well as, surprisingly, some structure. Coated with silicone to hold its form, these new lace skirts, bodies and dresses feel powerful rather than girlish. And in shades of burnt sienna, chocolate brown and muted mustard, they’re a welcome palette cleanser amid a mass of monochrome.
It wouldn’t be Vaccarello-era Saint Laurent without a little glamour, and while the creative director’s favourite leather took a backseat this season, he found other ways to dial up the drama. Jackets and coats are the kind you want to wear rather than confine to the cloakroom come party season: cocooning shearling with gemstone-buckle waist belts, oversized fold-over collars and patent trench coats. Fitting, for a collection inspired by the likes of Romy Schneider and Vivien Leigh.
On the runway, chunky golden brooches, chain necklaces and ear cuffs offered another nod to the OTT 1980s. But the house’s new-season bags offer something that works for every day as well as Vaccarello’s preferred twilight setting. Masterminded by designer Johnny Coca, AW26 brings with it new incarnations of the Icare, Solferino and Mombasa – as well as the Simone, now available at Harrods. A great bag as your sidekick – what says ‘girl power’ more than that?
In Partnership with Saint Laurent
