The Ultimate Wash Day Guide for Curls and Coils

Words by Jennifer George

For those with straight hair, the concept of ‘wash day’ might be alien, just washing their hair every couple of days without a thought. But if you have afro or curly hair, you’ll know that a wash day isn’t as simple as hopping in and out of the shower. “Curly hair has a completely different molecular structure compared to straight hair, with distinct amino acid and lipid distribution,” says Errol Douglas MBE, award-winning hairdresser and salon owner, “this often results in curly hair feeling dry, fragile, and more prone to breakage.” This means the hair needs extra care: not over washing it, nourishing it, and leaving time in your schedule to give it a routine that will keep it looking and feeling its best.

“Curly or coily hair textures tend not to get as oily as other hair textures,” says Annabel Kingsley, consultant trichologist and brand president at Philip Kingsley, “and thus can often go longer between washes before hair looks greasy at the root.” She advises clients with coily or curly hair to not go too long between washes (around every four days), however, as “ultimately healthy hair growth relies upon a healthy scalp environment, so you need to be regularly cleansing away excess oil, sweat, dirt and product build-up to maintain a healthy scalp.” As a rule of thumb, she says, a clean scalp is a healthy scalp, which equals healthy hair. Douglas adds that very curly hair types will likely be the most brittle and prone to damage (such as curl types 4A, 4B and 4C) to avoid overwashing. “They can go as far as every three weeks,” he says.

“Afro hair needs to be washed and conditioned in a specific way to ensure its cleansed and moisturised properly” adds Anaih Warner, colourist and afro hair expert at Larry King. “With straight hair, the natural oils from the scalp can easily distribute down the hair strands, but with afro hair, the texture is coiled so the oils can as easily run to the ends.” Her recommended wash day consists of “one cleansing shampoo followed by a moisturising shampoo, then a deep conditioning mask or treatment left on for 30 minutes (ideally in a plastic cap to keep the heat in).” Once rinsed, a curly hair routine should follow, such as leave-in conditioner and curl-enhancing products.

Since curly hair can take a lot of moisture, look for rich and nourishing conditioners that will deliver this intensely. “I use Living Proof Curl Conditioner on my curl clients,” says Douglas, “and for extra hydration, sometimes cocktail it with an oil, covering with a shower cap or towel. The heat from the scalp allows for better absorption.” After a thorough rinse, he suggests applying a leave-in conditioner and to “avoid silicones, as they can create a barrier that prevents deep conditioning and moisture absorption.”