The Future of Skincare Is Tailored to Your Biology

When we talk about innovation in skincare, we refer to more than research and development (although that’s a big part of it, of course). La Prairie’s holistic approach to longevity, for example, means the brand tailors its protocols not just to certain skin types, but also to different stages of life and their associated concerns. The Pure Gold Revitalising Essence “specifically addresses skin affected by hormonal slowdown, including that experienced during menopause,” explains Dr Jacqueline Hill, director of strategic innovation and science at the brand. An advanced Pure Gold Diffusion System and a host of restorative actives such as the Gold & Peptide Powered Meno Complex and time-released Glabridin offset the ageing process by “boosting moisture levels and improving skin barrier protection.”

La Mer’s origin story started at sea, when founder Dr Max Huber discovered the far-reaching qualities of fermented sea kelp. The hallmark ingredient was used to create the famous Miracle Broth, the secret sauce to the Crème de la Mer (and the rest of the brand's protocol). Today, marine biology continues to be a focal point for the brand, with the Rejuvenating Night Cream delivering a serious nighttime boost for your skin thanks to MRA-3: a compound of sea fennel and brown algae extracts that functions like retinol. With help from the iconic Miracle Broth, this rich cream mimics the top layer of skin and acts like a virtual sheet of moisture, locking in actives while nourishing skin to optimise nightly renewal.

Taking cues from drones’ navigation systems, Elemis’ serum is formulated with Ultra Smart Drone Peptide Technology, i.e. two smart peptides with an internal compass that allows them to target areas of your skin that are in particular need of hydration. Combined with a network of 12 powerful macro and micro algae, this serum promises to deliver moisture and nourishment, minimise the appearance of fine lines and leave you with a glowing complexion.

Estée Lauder is at the forefront of skin longevity with the newly launched Soft Cream. Informed by 15 years of research, the cream boasts the brand’s proprietary SIRTIVITY-LP technology which restores skin cells changed by age and environmental stressors, and promotes the production of essential proteins. The result? A visible improvement in the look of dark spots, fine lines, and a boost in firmness and radiance.

Growth factors, naturally occurring proteins that enable our skin’s ability to heal and regenerate, have been centre stage at Bioeffect since the brand’s inception. This serum is Bioeffect’s most potent yet, thanks to signature EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) and KGF (Keratinocyte Growth Factor) that have been formulated to an exceptional level of “purity, stability, and bioactivity,” explains Dr Sigrún Dögg, chief research and development officer at the brand. Other hero ingredients include N-Acetyl Glucosamine, which “boosts the skin’s renewal process by improving barrier function and minimising hyperpigmentation, while hyaluronic acid provides deep hydration by retaining moisture within the skin layers.”

Skin longevity hinges on the genetic information that is fed into our skin cells, with the most advanced formulations capable of incentivising cells to produce essential proteins like collagen, supporting a bright, healthy complexion. But longevity is also about detoxifying cells that emit harmful genetic information – senescent cells, or ‘zombie cells’ – which crop up as we get older.

Tatcha’s Longevity Serum focuses on the latter. Formulated with Okinawa Cellescence Complex, a potent blend of extracts inspired by Nuchi-Gusui – the nutrient-rich diet of the Japanese islands – it reduces senescent cells (up to 55% based on in-vitro testing), while also boosting the resilience of healthy ones.

Sisley’s new serum is the result of the brand’s six-year research into skin health, and the discovery of “three essential systems ensuring its youthfulness: the cutaneous system, the vascular system and the immune system,” explains Julie Wainberg, skincare axis director of international marketing. With time, not only do these systems grow weaker, she says, but they also fail to communicate with each other, leading to accelerated signs of ageing. This serum targets these concerns by harnessing actives like “beta-glucans fraction and a new Ginkgo extract to reconnect and reinforce the three skin’s essential systems,” in addition to a dewy serum-in-oil texture that is fast-absorbing and incredibly effective.

Created to nourish and plump the delicate eye area, this ultra-concentrated cream is all about novel formulations. Inspired by medical-grade skincare, its ingredients list includes Triple DNA, a Valmont signature derived from salmon that’s intensely hydrating thanks to its ability to retain 10,000 times its weight in water, as well as RNA Liposome, a healing acid that promotes protein synthesis and genetic regulation, and, finally, red algae and caffeine, which reduce puffiness and the appearance of fine lines. A smooth, energised gaze, at your fingertips.

Another booming research area in skincare is circadian beauty, or, how to tap into the body’s natural 12-hour restoration cycle to get the most out of your skincare routine. Noble Panacea is at the forefront of that niche, its new nightly serum formulated to align – and boost – skin cell renewal cycles.

“Science recognises three distinct nighttime phases,” explains co-creator Audrey Bois Nicolaï. “Detoxification from 11pm to 4am, regeneration from 2am to 4am, and peak absorption from 4am onwards. We have programmed the serum to align with these overnight restoration cycles to enhance skin regeneration and hydration. This is pure chemistry, not magic!”

One of the most hyped innovations in skincare, PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) is the hero compound du jour. And while you might have heard about the salmon-derived version, this cream from Lancôme harnesses the power of rose DNA, which takes up to 40 hours to extract. “This breakthrough ingredient, derived from trillions of rose DNA fragments, helps boost cellular metabolism and extend skin’s vitality,” says international scientific director, Dr Annie Black. Hailing from South Korea, where it’s “widely used [...] for its skin regenerating properties,” PDRN is the epitome of longevity in skincare. “It’s about maintaining optimal cellular health, barrier strength, and regenerative capacity over time, not just reversing visible signs of aging but extending the skin’s period of optimal function. It’s a shift from reactive to proactive skincare: less about fixing damage, more about building long-term skin resilience.”

On the topic of rare ingredients, Clarins makes a strong case for its longevity research with the Precious La Crème. Formulated with hand-harvested Moonlight Flower, a tropical blossom that blooms once a year, alongside a powerful peptide trio, this lightweight yet plumping moisturiser will leave your face looking revitalised and radiant. Complete with Clarins’ Anti-Pollution Complex of Organic White Horehound, Furcellaria and Nipplewort extracts, it also minimises damage from environmental stressors, offering a full 360 treatment in a single pot.

The Peau Magnifique Serum boasts a state-of-the-art formula and an advanced delivery system that ensure active ingredients are absorbed in the areas of the skin that need them most. Featuring all of RéVive’s signature peptides: Bio-Renewal, Bio-Firming, and Bio-Volumising peptides, in addition to two nourishing bio-boosters, the serum works to firm the skin, minimise the appearance of deep lines and improve its barrier function.