Meet the New Gourmands

A richer, bolder take on The Coveted Duchess Rose eau de parfum, The Coveted Duchess Rose eau de parfum Intense maintains the noble sensibility of its namesake character with a trio of rose extracts, but takes a more seductive approach that speaks to fiery femininity. “In this intense version, the rose becomes almost carnal, desirable, even provocative,” says perfumer Nathalie Lorson. Contrasted with warm vanilla and musk, the blend becomes alluring and inviting, while mandarin illuminates it with a vibrant freshness. Unexpected notes such as saffron and amber further elevate the fragrance, lending it an intriguing and compelling finish.

Vanilla becomes ever more enticing in Lost Eden eau de parfum, a sweet gourmand inspired by the forbidden fruit and the mythical Garden of Eden. Translating the tale into a fruity, woody composition, it opens with – what else – candied red apple, exuding a refreshing tartness that is soon softened by a velvety vanilla core. An oud accord in the base adds a dark, smoky facet that elevates the composition into more mature territory, drawing on the interplay between light and shadow.

Tom Ford has sensuality and allure baked into its DNA, so it’s no surprise that its olfactory creations feel fiercely seductive. The brand’s latest creation, Tobacco Chocolat, is a rich, ambery gourmand with a smooth character. Blending precious tobacco and dark chocolate notes, tinged with a honeyed gleam, “the fragrance elevates gourmand notes to new heights,” says Daniela Andrier, the nose behind the perfume. “The centrepiece is the exclusive cocoa smoke accord, a co-distillation of slow-roasted tobacco leaves and pure dark chocolate,” she explains, emphasising the sensorial experience of wearing the fragrance. Rich and spicy, it’s an exultation of scent and taste.

The comforting aroma of your morning espresso reaches new depths with Roja’s Espresso Aoud. Richly layered, this gourmand taps into the brand’s oud expertise, reinterpreting the precious note through the compelling intensity of coffee. “It was important for us to disrupt and do something totally unexpected and surprising,” says Dove, noting the modernist influences behind the creation. Roasted coffee beans define the aromatic tempo, tinged with caramelised nuts and pistachio, which lend the blend a creamy, velvety texture. Aoud anchors the composition, adding the bold signature for which the brand is known.

Matiere Premiere’s Black Currant extrait is a multifaceted creation. Bottling the purity and freshness of French blackcurrant, perfumer Aurélien Guichard aims to evoke “an immediate savoury pleasure”, which melds seamlessly into premium quality oud assam oil from Bangladesh, known for its warm, woody character. “I wanted a blackcurrant textured with oud, where the purple vibrancy of blackcurrant cassis gradually darkens into leather, woods and musks,” says Guichard. The result is complex and appetising, with remarkable persistence and structure.

As some of the best things do, Oud Morning starts at breakfast. Perfumer Vanina Muracciole was inspired by her time studying in Oxford, where the succulent fruit quickly became her go-to petit-déjeuner. With recent olfactory innovations allowing her to recreate the fruit’s freshness, the note is intended to “act like a light, a spotlight, to illuminate the oud,” she says. Woody notes and resins add depth, enriching the complexity of the blend. “To my nose, it’s beautifully balanced,” quips founder François Hénin, adding that “‘balanced’ should not fool anyone – this is still a Jeroboam fragrance, which is to say a proper extrait: quiet it is not.”

To capture the buzzing excitement of London’s theatre scene, Opening Night melds savoury carrot and cardamom essences with warm milk, enchanting florals and an ambery base, a combination that feels both bold and comforting. “This fragrance carries the feeling of a warm cup of oat chai latte in your hands, translating its creaminess and generosity into scent,” says perfumer Nisrine Grillié, describing how the blend expresses the fleeting moment between a show and the curtain drop.

Coming soon

In creating Jo Malone London’s limited-edition Veggies Collection, Celine Roux, head of product development, was inspired by Britain’s love of vegetable patches. After touring some of the country’s most elaborate kitchen gardens and city allotments, she discovered the surprising appeal of beetroot, which she describes as “jewel-like”, and was inspired to create a fragrance that is both elegant and wearable. Joined by juicy raspberry and blackcurrant, which usher in an appetising sweetness, patchouli transforms the composition with remarkable sophistication.

Pro tip: “Pair it with our Pomegranate Noir Cologne to amplify the scarlet fruits and sultry trail of patchouli, or add a flourish of florals with Peony & Blush Suede Cologne for romantic softness.”

Carolina Herrera is made for the bon vivant; those who delight in life’s pleasures, big and small. Peccato Nobile was inspired by the eponymous founder’s childhood memories of shared desserts in a tucked-away Little Italy restaurant in New York. With notes of pistachio, cocoa and precious oud, it is both sweet and savoury, proving that real indulgence is often the result of impeccable balance.

Honoré Delights is a contemporary expression of gourmand fragrance. Featuring buttery hazelnut notes combined with bright orange blossom and warm vanilla, this scent manages to evoke an airy, flirtatious character while subtly revealing surprising depth. Designed as a homage to Paris’ Rue Saint-Honoré, home to Ex Nihilo’s elegant flagship store, it is the epitome of Parisian chic.