How Sunglasses Became the New Collector’s Item

Words by Tony Wilkes

Their craft can take up to 250 steps over two years. Just one of them is handmade by thirteen different artisans working in renowned workshops in Japan. They use the finest materials in the world, like 18-karat gold and organic plastic cured for over three months, chosen for its uniquely rich colour and unrivalled strength. Expert hand-polishers who finish the process have apprenticed in their art for 10 years. The result, you might think, is a fine watch, cutting-edge gadget or perhaps even a supercar. But at Matsuda, these masterpieces are sunglasses.

“Every Matsuda frame is a result of disciplined artistry rooted in Japanese techniques,” the brand tells us. “Their value lies in the way they capture contrasts – tradition with futurism, art with utility – to create something truly singular.” Today, the best men’s sunglasses brands (the likes of Matsuda, Port Tanger and Jacques Marie Mage) understand this desire for uniqueness; for knowing your sunglasses are as meticulously honed and rare as the finest collectables. As Matsuda explains: “In contemporary menswear, sunglasses offer a discreet yet powerful mode of distinction.”

In fact, this is nothing new. It’s said that the Roman Emperor Nero wore polished gems to shield his eyes from the sun when watching gladiators in the arena. Fast forward to the 20th century and sunglasses earned a new note of glamour – being donned by early Hollywood stars to avoid the glare of harsh studio lighting. And it was Hollywood, most famously Tom Cruise in 1986’s Top Gun, that cemented one style as a menswear icon: the Type D-1 aviators, introduced in the late 1920s by the United States Air Force pilots, and essentially responsible for the coming of Ray-Ban.

It’s this rich history that informs Matsuda’s Heritage collection, a line hand-selected from the brand’s archive reimagined as limited and special editions. “The Heritage Collection reflects the core values of our brand,” says Matsuda. “Exclusivity, storytelling and visual refinement. Each pair has been released as numbered editions that speak directly to collectors and connoisseurs.” The 10601Hs, for instance – dating to 1995 – take inspiration from the pince-nez styles of the late 19th century. Crafted from lightweight titanium, their heritage shape dynamically contrasts with bold coloured lenses – a trend our buyers are backing this season.

Jacques Marie Mage is another leading name that specialises in rare and collectable sunglasses. The brand’s designs take inspiration from the aesthetic revolutions of the last three centuries, from the French Empire Style of Napoleon to the unique clarity of Art Deco. This season brings two limited-edition capsules to Menswear on the Second Floor – homages to Johnny Cash and Canadian classical pianist Glenn Gould. The latter’s aptly named Sonata sunglasses have classic square frames, inspired by those from the 1960s, that are guaranteed to suit any face shape.

It’s important to note that, like Matsuda, Jacques Marie Mage and Port Tanger handcraft every pair in Japan. “Craftsmanship is at the heart of what we do,” says Jo-kel Cornejo Borthwick, Port Tanger’s design director. “We work closely with skilled artisans in Japan, rooted in the traditions of fine eyewear making. By understanding these time-honoured methods, we’re able to push boundaries – blending classic handcraftsmanship with subtle, unexpected details that make our frames truly distinct. It’s this tension between the old and new that defines our identity and allows us to create something timeless yet contemporary.”

Aside from impeccable craftsmanship, sunglasses also provide another bonus: privacy. “They serve as a design-forward shield,” Matsuda describes it, which in a world of smartphones and social media, has never been more appealing. The eyes, it’s said, are windows to the soul – and to conceal them, alongside our innermost thoughts – is perhaps luxury’s final frontier. To wear sunglasses has become the wardrobing equivalent of a remote house, set back from the road and protected by gates – or, in the language of tech, to change your settings to private. And isn’t that detox appealing?