Words by Georgi Tinkov
As one of the basic human senses, smell is how we gather information about the world around us, and consequently, it has become a canvas for individuality. Fragrance has the unique power of conjuring emotions, stirring up memories and painting vivid pictures. Yet, somewhere at the turn of the 20th century, (mostly) thanks to heavy marketing around aftershave, the typical masculine scent was culturally confined, and limited to, a smell akin to liquor or tobacco, leaving very little to work with.
Fast forward to today, and thanks to some of the world’s best noses, men's fragrance has evolved to become complex and sophisticated. Layered with aromatics that reflect personality and emotional intelligence, now, the modern man has the opportunity to find a scent that helps to define him and become a key part of his sensory code.
Just like the rails in your favourite shop cater to the way you present yourself, so too does the world of fragrance: it’s just a case of cracking your own code.
If you are still trying to decipher your sensory style, trust in Louis Vuitton’s Pacific Chill to harness fresh aromatics of mint, coriander and basil – “to distil the emotional well-being of a smoothie in a bottle,” as master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud puts it. Evoking the detoxifying air of the Californian coastline, the fragrance invigorates the nose and mind with the refreshing opening of citrus, before the sweetness of blackcurrant and ambrette kicks in.
The fundamentals of perfumery date back 4,000 years and many olfactory artists have created intricate scents using two of the core materials; resins and incense like oud. With its complex, balsamic core, Oud Cadenza by Maison Crivelli will appeal if your tastes are for something with lingering warmth. The striking juice captures the vigour of an alfresco late-night party among palm trees, with its combination of smokiness and sweetness. Add to that a spice mix of cardamom, cinnamon and pink pepper with notes of toasted cane sugar and dates for a scent that lingers on the skin.
A more delicate interpretation of oud comes via Brunello Cucinelli's Ricordo, which awakens the senses with spicy coriander softened by jasmine sambac, patchouli and cashmeran.
But it’s not all woody and smoky. Florals have long been associated with feminine vanity, but ultimately, they play a huge role in adding depth and sensuality to many profiles.
‘’Most of the time, when people smell Tilia, they think it’s for women. And when they smell it on me, they say, oh no, it's also for men,’’ says Marc-Antoine Barrois' general manager, Quentin Barrois.
Tilia is the scent of everlasting summer, a bucolic ode to carefree times. It’s a solar bouquet of florals redolent with the scent of linden, orange blossom and heliotrope that reminds Barrios of his childhood growing up in rural France. ‘’In the two months of summer holiday, my family and I would travel from Brittany to my grandparents’ home in the mountains. That journey through the countryside smelled of trees in the warmth. The days were long, and we had nothing to do, so to me, Tilia represents those simple and peaceful times. Even in the winter, people like to wear it because it just brings you something fresh and optimistic.’’
On the other end of the spectrum, Brompton Immortals by Ex Nihilo transports the senses to the bustling streets around Harrods in Knightsbridge. Pepper and saffron warm up the palate for the sensual crescendo of Bulgarian rose, jasmine absolute and lisylang, while vanilla and olibanum deliver a musky overture.
