Inside the New Les Extraits de CHANEL Fragrance Collection

Words by Verity Clark


CHANEL is a long-established house of Grand Perfumery. There have been just four perfume creators at CHANEL, since Gabrielle Chanel’s time, and it is this familial approach that – according to Olivier Polge, the current house perfumer – allows each of them to have total “creative freedom and independence” in their work.

“We do not try to reproduce nature exactly, or to translate the precise smell of the flower. Instead, we aim to develop unique and remarkable olfactory facets in order to obtain a style that is ours alone,” specifies Polge. The result is a unique composition of notes and accords that you know can only belong to CHANEL.


Take the Les Exclusifs de Chanel, for example, the new Les Extraits de CHANEL are a more concentrated version of the originals which are “subtle tributes to places, people and symbols that evoke an extraordinary destiny”. Consider the collection a scented trail of what Gabrielle Chanel “loved, conquered and created”. To spritz these captivating scents is to “follow her life lines and her passions – from Boy to Misia, from 31 Rue Cambon to La Pausa, from 1932 to 1957 and from Coromandel to Beige”.

An Avant Garde Manifesto

In 1921, the most famous fragrance in the world was born, CHANEL No.5. The alluring jasmine-rich fragrance is, as the house says, the “flagbearer of CHANEL’s visionary spirit”. And it is as relevant, and recognisable, today as it was when it was created. “The originality of No.5 grows as time passes,” explains Polge, not only because it remains one of the few representative of its era – many perfumes from the 1920s have disappeared or their formulas have changed – but “because fragrances are no longer created in the way that No.5 is”. The story goes that Gabrielle Chanel asked, then perfume creator, Ernest Beaux what was the most precious ingredient in the fragrance and then requested that he add even more jasmine. The result was up to 1,000 Grasse-grown jasmine flowers in one 30ml bottle, and it is this dedication to pure, raw materials that has made No.5 the icon that it is today and inspired the creation of the Les Extraits CHANEL collection.

Les Exclusifs de Chanel: An Ode to Craftmanship

“What makes this collection exclusive is precisely the way in which these raw materials are assembled,” says Polge. The flowers are hand-picked, and within hours the essence and absolute are extracted on site, going from flower to fragrance without ever leaving the field in which it was grown. The result is a fragrance of the highest possible quality and expression.


“The Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection is distinguished by privileging raw materials worked in dense concentrations,” continues Polge. “These olfactory expressions are so rich that their sensuality is fully revealed when worn on the skin. The sillage thus becomes unique and deeply personal.”


It is not just the fragrance itself which is crafted by hand, the making and polishing of the bottle as well as the baudruchage technique which seals the juice of the Extrait de Parfum are all skills which have been passed down through generations and are examples of the craftmanship bespoke to Chanel.

Our Top Picks

Cométe

Inspired by the starburst necklaces from the 1932 fine jewellery collection, Cométe is a soft smattering of star dust. The combination of iris, cherry blossom and musk is like a warm, powdery hug that brings joy to all who wear – and all who smell – it.

Sycomore

A rich, smoky scent fuelled by vetiver, tobacco and sandalwood that has a mysterious elegance to it that commands attention. Spritz this and know that you will get stopped and asked what you’re wearing.

Le Lion

Named after one of the symbols of Venice, the lion was a recurring motif for Gabrielle Chanel and, for her, it represented a quiet strength. Le Lion does the same with its gentle glow of amber, patchouli and leathery, smoky notes that are at once subtle and steely.

Boy

A tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s great love, Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel, this fragrance blends masculine and feminine notes of lavender, geranium and grapefruit to create an elegantly androgynous scent that sparks confidence in the wearer.

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