Words by Sophia Miller
It’s here: the time of year when summer dresses and resortwear give way to cashmere, coats and the endless styling possibilities of layering. This season, attention turns towards sophistication and elevation. From McQueen’s dandy-inspired ruffles and chunky cable knits to tactile faux fur by way of Miu Miu and Chloé, Autumn/Winter 2025 embraces texture, silhouette and rich colour. Look no further for the key brands and hero pieces that define the new mood.
Seán McGirr has gone from strength to strength at McQueen, with his third collection borrowing codes of Victorian Gothic by way of pinch-shouldered tailoring, layered ruffles and opulent embroidery. McGirr’s muse for Autumn/Winter 2025? A self-assured neo-dandy à la Oscar Wilde, rewritten for the modern day.
The attire of British aristocracy lends eccentric inspiration to numerous collections this season. Heritage codes run rife in arrivals from Loewe, Prada, Max Mara and Givenchy, looking to time-honoured textures of tweed and herringbone, and outerwear and accessories in tonal plaid. The key to wearing this trend in the here and now? Introduce leather and studded hardware for a modern attitude.
If you take one thing from the Autumn/Winter 2025 runways, let it be this: outerwear is the outfit. Plush faux fur was seen at Miu Miu, Chloé and beyond, appearing across coats, scarves and even accessories. Dialling up the volume, sculptural silhouettes held noteworthy presence, emphasising a feminine silhouette. Prepare to make an entrance.
Fashion’s favourite primary has been a trending colour for a while now – and its power shows no signs of waning. From Victoria Beckham’s tomato-bright bias cuts to cherry-deep notes at Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney, the red palette offers a vivid antithesis to quiet luxury.
Where oversized androgyny once reigned supreme, corseted silhouettes – inspired by literary heroines of ages past – came to the fore, a reclamation of feminine strength. The likes of Schiaparelli, Simkhai and Dior accentuated the hourglass via nipped-in tailoring, cinched dresses and exaggerated hips. Confident and celebratory.
Pleats. Feathers. Embroidery. For AW25, no texture is off-limits – and play is encouraged. Balance sheer with cosy, or heavy leather with open-worked knitwear. Going further still, the likes of Alaïa and Sportmax ramp up tactility – employing three-dimensional patterns and kinetic fringing to amplify the life and movement of autumn staples. Welcome to a new season.