Words by Nasreen Osman
Even the most solid skincare routine can experience a stalemate when up against hormonal activity. You may have wondered why your complexion sometimes looks flat, when you haven’t stopped using your brightening serums. Or perhaps, your skin has enjoyed a clear spell that is swiftly interrupted by a breakout. It’s not uncommon to think that your skin’s temperament returns to ‘normal’ once your period has passed but in fact, your skin is continuously going through changes over a 28 to 30-day cycle.
Cycle syncing means adapting your products to your skin’s needs throughout your menstrual cycle. Your monthly cycle is broken down into four stages: the menstruation phase, follicular phase, ovulation, and luteal phase; during each stage, your levels of oestrogen, progesterone and testosterone rise and fall, and as a result, can lead to oily, dry or sensitive skin. “Keeping in mind your menstrual cycle allows you to understand changes in your skin and adapt your skincare routine accordingly, allowing for a more holistic approach to maintaining skin health,” says leading aesthetic doctor and practitioner in The Wellness Clinic, Dr Rabia Malik.
“When it comes to timings, the main consideration for the type of treatments I do in my practice relates to skin sensitivity,” explains Dr Malik. “I advise patients to avoid treatments in the pre-menstrual phase, just before they get their period, as this is the time when oestrogen and progesterone levels are at their lowest and skin tends to be at its most sensitive.” Instead, schedule your treatments mid-cycle when your skin is less sensitive and can soak in all the goodness your session has to offer.
DAYS 1-6
During this time, oestrogen and progesterone levels drop, leading to dry, dehydrated and more easily irritated skin. This is the time to focus on hydration and keep your routine simple. Reach for replenishing serums such as Medik8’s Hydr8 B5 Serum or incorporate Emma Lewisham’s Supernatural Sleeping Mask to hydrate deeply and illuminate skin by sunrise. Another tip? Anti-inflammatory ingredients such as aloe, calendula and oatmeal can help to manage breakouts.
DAYS 7-11
As your period ends, oestrogen levels slowly rise and you’ll start to see a natural glow emit from your skin. It’s feeling cool, calm and balanced – more elastic, too, thanks to an increase in collagen production. Keep this glow going by re-introducing actives – Ren’s Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic is a firm favourite you can count on. For your daily dose of vitamin C, look to Natura Bissé’s C+C Vitamin 20% Antiox Solution. And where there are skin-refining formulas, high-protection sunscreens should always follow. Evidens de Beauté’s The Total Shield will do the trick and then some.
As for your monthly facials or treatments? Dr Malik advises that “Certain treatments, such as microneedling or skin peels might be best done during the follicular phase as this is when oestrogen levels are higher, potentially aiding in skin healing and regeneration.”
DAYS 12-16
Good news: your oestrogen levels are at their peak, and you’re set to enjoy a spell of clear, bright skin. Indulge this period by nourishing your skin with La Mer’s The Genaissance de la Mer Serum or reward it with 111SKIN’s indulgent Black Diamond Lifting and Firming Treatment Mask Set. Prevention is also key during this time – opting for oil-free, water-based skincare can help keep pores clear ahead of the next stage and you can’t go wrong with the lipid-stimulating Nescens Cleansing Gel or Charlotte Tilbury’s Charlotte Magic Water Cream.
DAYS 17-28
PMS, anyone? Enter hormonal acne, cravings, mood swings – the works. Progesterone increases, oestrogen levels plummet and your body temperature rises. Medical consultant and founder of the Adonia Medical Clinic, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme says that your skin can become more “oily and congested” during the luteal phase. Keep breakouts at bay by “incorporating or increasing your use of salicylic acid, a retinoid or azelaic acid.” Consider Dr Dennis Gross' Alpha AHA/BHA Daily Cleansing Gel to double up on exfoliating acids in one step. Your skin “is [also] inflamed”, according to Dr Malik, so balance those actives with calming, soothing formulas. Try Perricone MD’s Barrier Repair Nourishing Moisturizer or Kama Ayurveda’s Kumkumadi Soft Cream and your skin will thank you.
From the debate on morning cleansing to the essential evening steps, we’ve tapped top skincare experts to help you craft a routine that works harder for you, day and night.
From cryotherapy chambers and IV drips to at-home skin saviours, discover the best treatments and products that serve as an antidote to tell-tale puffy eyes and parched skin.
