The Ultimate Guide to Your AM and PM Skincare Routine

Words by Nasreen Osman

Every skincare lover knows that their version of ‘great skin’ doesn’t just happen — it’s the result of trial and error, consistency, efficacious formulas and, crucially, a routine tailored to your skin’s natural rhythms. “Our skin behaves differently during the day and night due to its natural circadian rhythm,” explains Emma Lewisham, founder of her eponymous skincare brand. During the day, your skin defends against environmental aggressors like UV rays and pollution. At night, it shifts into repair mode, working overtime to regenerate and rejuvenate.

By tailoring your routine with these natural cycles, you’ll get the most out of your products and move closer to your skincare goals. It’s a win-win. With insights from skincare experts and brand founders, we break down how to curate an AM and PM routine that works for you.

The morning is all about protecting your skin from whatever the day throws at you — pollution, UV rays, and maybe the occasional stress-induced frown line. Lewisham explains it best: “During the day, your skin is in a protective state, so it’s vital to use products that shield against environmental stressors.” In other words, think of your morning routine as donning a superhero cape for your skin.

Before we dive into the key steps, let's tackle the age-old question: do you need to cleanse your face in the morning? This often-debated step comes down to personal preference and skin type. Dr Rabia Malik, leading aesthetic doctor at The Wellness Clinic in Harrods and founder of Doctor Skin Collagen, recommends cleansing in the morning, especially if you have oily or acne-prone skin: “Cleansing removes any oil, sweat or residue that may have built up overnight and prepares your skin for the rest of your routine.” For drier or sensitive skin types, however, a splash of lukewarm water may be all you need to start the day fresh.

Boost radiance and shield your skin with a vitamin C serum, a must-have for experts and enthusiasts alike. “Vitamin C protects against environmental stressors and boosts radiance,” says Jasmina Vico, skin health expert and founder of Vico Skin. Plus, it even bolsters the effect of your sunscreen. Natura Bissé C+C Vitamin 20% Antiox Solution is great for hydration and antioxidants, RéVive’s Skincare Brightening Vitamin C Serum for an even, luminous glow. Another option is Emma Lewisham’s Skin Reset Serum, which brightens and addresses hyperpigmentation.

After energising your skin with brightening actives, it’s time to lock in that all-important hydration. Vico recommends a hydrator rich in peptides and ceramides to strengthen the skin barrier and lock in moisture. Consider it your skin’s version of a morning coffee (or matcha) – a necessity to wake up. Try Dr Barbara Sturm’s Super Anti-Aging Dual Serum or the powerhouse blend of botanicals found in Emma Lewisham’s Supernatural Vitale Elixir.

SPF isn’t just for sunny holidays; it’s a year-round must-have. As Lewisham puts it, ”No morning routine is complete without sunscreen.“ It’s your skin’s best defence against premature ageing and damage. Vico echoes the importance of SPF, recommending a lightweight SPF 50 to keep skin shielded without feeling heavy. Lancaster and Shiseido’s are two of our favourites for doing just that.

Pro tip: Add some spa-like indulgence to your mornings. Vico suggests icing your face to reduce puffiness, focusing on the eye area and lymph nodes – found near the jawline and under the ears – for a refreshed, sculpted look. You can also try Sisley’s Gingko Gua Sha or ice globe tools for a sculpted glow.

If your morning routine is about suiting up for the day, your evening routine is the R&R your skin deserves. It’s restful yet efficient with active ingredients doing the heavy lifting while you sleep. Dr Malik explains, "Nighttime is the best time for skin renewal, so focus on active ingredients like retinol and peptides for maximum results."

“Cleansing thoroughly in the evening is non-negotiable,” says Dr Malik. Start with a double cleanse to remove make-up and impurities, followed by an exfoliant 1–2 times a week to encourage cell turnover. Pat in MZ Skin’s Micro Peeling Glow Essence or Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant to start with a clean slate and prep for the steps ahead.

Here’s where targeted treatments come into play. Retinol is a classic choice, as Dr Maryam Zamani, founder of MZ Skin notes, and is a staple in so many routines for its incredible ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and even out skin tone. Try MZ Skin’s Advanced Retinol Complex Serum or Royal Fern’s Retinol Solution. If you’re not into retinol, try a niacinamide serum like Element Eight’s O2 Niacinamide Eight Active Serum to brighten and minimise the appearance of wrinkles.

“Protect the skin from transepidermal water loss and wake up to glowing skin,” advises Dr Zamani. Preventing water loss helps to keep your skin hydrated and plump, ensuring your complexion stays radiant till sunrise. A decadent cream like La Prairie’s Life Matrix Haute Rejuvenation Cream will do the trick. This is also when you can apply an eye cream. Our first pick is Augustinus Bader’s The Rich Eye Cream to deeply nourish the delicate skin under your eyes. Dr Zamani also recommends incorporating an LED mask into your evening routine for an added boost to skin regeneration and to decrease inflammation.

Pro tip: Evening rituals are the perfect opportunity to unwind. As Dr Malik suggests: “Pamper your skin and your mind with evening routines that prioritise care and calm.” So, light a Diptyque candle, grab your favourite LED mask and put on your favourite Netflix show.

By aligning your skincare routine with your skin’s natural rhythms, you’re not just ticking boxes — you’re unlocking the secret to glowing, resilient skin. As Lewisham puts it, “our skin is such an incredible and intricate organ, working in ways far beyond what the eye can see.” Whether it’s your morning SPF or your night-time serum, these small rituals add up to big results.