New Season: Trends to Know for Autumn/Winter 2024

Words by Eleanor Hibberd

Autumn/Winter 2024 is where ‘brat summer’ gives way to all things demure. Nestled somewhere between quiet luxury and chic maximalism, the latest collections maintain an emphasis on craft and quality materials – bringing in touches of extroversion via excess embellishment, wintry florals, statement coats and sheer, gossamer textures.

Drawing inspiration from the priceless interiors of storied aristocratic homes, Jonathan Anderson’s AW24 collection for LOEWE further flexes the brand’s flair for craft. Impressive artisanry dominated the season, taking shape as intricate ‘caviar’ beading that mapped out tapestry-like flora and fauna motifs, and a stand-out bag shaped like a bundle of asparagus – based on antique ceramics. Elsewhere, the collection subverts traditional formal tailoring, pairing with voluminous balloon trousers and flowing bucolic prints, while a roster of impeccably good outerwear is offered up in the form of flawless military coats, leather bomber jackets and shearling aviators.

Fashion needn’t be overthought – and there’s no denying that earthy shades just feel right at this time of year. The proof of the pudding is in AW24’s autumnal palette, as seen at Khaite, Fendi, Burberry and more. In the wake of our recent obsession with oxblood accessories and all things red, this season is set to be rich with Merlot and Malbec alongside olive greens, rusty browns and neutrals. Wearing colour becomes less about one statement pop, and more about layering tones and textures to enhance the sophistication of these down-to-earth hues.

With party season on the horizon, there’s never a shortage of sparkle in the autumn/winter collections – but here you’ll find a more wearable cohort than ever. Party dresses have their place come the festive period, but AW24 in the main is about elevating the everyday. Think shiny accoutrements added to jackets, sequins coupled with knitwear and embellished shoes that lift a pair of bestselling jeans or tailored trousers. The message? Don’t hide your sparkle under a bushel.

Traditional Italian glamour has left a red-lipped impression on Autumn/Winter 2024, as evidenced by Miu Miu, Magda Butrym and Alaïa. Slinky yet mature silhouettes, darkly demure tones and – the star of the show – coats with dramaaa. Accessories are essential to the aesthetic, from razor-sharp point-toe stilettos to impenetrably dark sunglasses and a handbag too small to be considered ‘practical’. Leopard print is optional, but encouraged.

From negligée-style shifts at Prada to Chloé’s floaty boho silhouettes and gothic lace at Valentino Garavani, sheer accents are bringing a lightness of touch to the Autumn/Winter 2024 collections. Will you juxtapose transparency with modest high necklines and structured blazers or lean into it with diaphanous evening pieces courtesy of Nensi Dojaka? There’s more than one way to wear the trend. The fil rouge: confidence.