The Harrods Guide to the Black-Tie Dress Code for Women

Words by Sophia Miller

In a world where dress codes seem to get more casual by the year, a black-tie event can be a welcome invitation to go all out. But what exactly does it mean? Do you need to wear a gown? Is colour acceptable? And what should you absolutely avoid wearing? Let Harrods – and some of fashion’s leading eveningwear experts – be your guide.

Less formal than white tie, but still reserved for some of the most elegant occasions in the social calendar – think galas, weddings and formal dinners – the black-tie dress code originates in 19th-century Britain. Though a dark-coloured dinner jacket has been customary attire for men ever since, the womenswear black-tie equivalent allows more license for creativity, as long as you bring out your finery.

“These kinds of glamorous occasions inspire me because they’re a celebration of life’s most meaningful moments,” says designer Monique Lhuillier. “There’s something truly special about the energy in the room when people dress up. A gown isn’t just about fashion, it’s about how it makes someone feel: elegant, empowered and unforgettable.”

In short, the black-tie dress code for women calls for a long (often floor-length) dress or gown, fashioned in an evening-appropriate material such as silk or chiffon – though the precise level of formality can depend on the event you’re attending. “Today, while the essence of elegance remains, there’s more freedom to express your personal style when it comes to black-tie dressing,” says Monique Lhuillier. “Hemlines can often be shorter and there’s room for modern, relaxed cuts or unexpected details.” When in doubt, ask your host – they should be able to advise whether a slightly shorter ankle-length or cocktail dress would be appropriate. Anything above the knee, though, will likely steer you into too-casual territory.

As for what not to wear? Remember that black tie necessitates eveningwear. “Avoid overly revealing cuts, casual fabrics like cotton, or accessories that feel too ‘daytime’,” advises Lhuillier. “Above all, choose a piece that makes you feel confident, beautiful, and ready to celebrate – it should feel like a true extension of you.”

“Black tie calls for formality, but it doesn't mean sacrificing personality,” says designer Maria Lucia Hohan. “The Cassiopeia, Sureya or Taylor gowns from our Harrods capsule collection are especially well-suited to black tie,” she recommends. “They’re feminine but bold, thanks to sculpted bodices, sleek lines and floor-sweeping hems.”

Elsewhere, gowns with ruffles, feathers and dramatic caped detailing offer a fashion-forward take on black-tie dressing – as do unexpected prints and saturated hues as seen at Carolina Herrera, Talbot Runhof and Safiyaa. “Look for rich textures like silk faille, velvet or tulle, and don’t shy away from colour,” says Monique Lhuillier. “Deep jewel tones, romantic pastels or even a bold print can be just as striking as black.”

When it comes to accessories, Maria Lucia Hohan recommends a refined palette of gold, silver or monochrome tones. “Minimalist yet impactful accessories work best,” she says. “Perhaps a pair of chandelier earrings or a statement cuff – they’ll add a touch of drama while letting the gown shine.” Monique Lhuillier agrees that the right choice of shoes and jewellery can transform a black-tie look. “The key is balance,” the designer says. “If your dress is highly detailed, go for simpler accessories. If the silhouette is sleek and minimal, you can play with more daring jewellery or a standout shoe.”

When it comes to hair and make-up, the same rules apply – the experts at Carolina Herrera suggest that a red lip can be the ideal finishing touch to more understated looks. Equally, elegant up-do hairstyles are a popular option, says Hohan: “Pulled-back hair will keep focus on the silhouette of your dress,” she explains.