The Ultimate Guide to Treating Hyperpigmentation

Words by Jennifer George


Hyperpigmentation (commonly referred to as just pigmentation) is something that most people will notice crop up on their skin at some point, especially as you get older. And though it’s common, it’s luckily also very often treatable with the right skincare ingredients and approach. From spotting it to sending it packing, here’s everything you need to know about hyperpigmentation. 

What is hyperpigmentation?

“Hyperpigmentation is a common, usually harmless condition in which patches of skin become darker in colour than the ‘normal’ surrounding skin” explains Dr Marwa Ali, an aesthetic doctor with a diploma in cosmetic dermatology (based at Harrods’ Wellness Clinic), “and the cause depends on the type of hyperpigmentation the individual has.” 

What causes hyperpigmentation?

Essentially anything that hurts or upsets the balance of your skin can lead to pigmentation problems. Dr Barbara Sturm, aesthetic expert and founder of Dr Barbara Sturm skincare, explains that “hyperpigmentation is often an inflammatory response and can be caused by ageing, sun exposure and commonly by hormonal changes like pregnancy which cause a type of hyperpigmentation called melasma.” Melasma often shows in larger blotches of darkened skin, usually on the cheeks, forehead, chin and upper lip. Dr Sturm also explains that darker skin tones, or melanin-rich skin “is especially sensitive to hyperpigmentation and can experience an ‘inflammation cascade’ - a response to injury of the skin during which the healing process of damaged tissue stimulates the production of melanin, leading to post-inflammatory pigmentation.”

What can you do to prevent or erase hyperpigmentation?

Firstly, prevention is key, says Dr Sturm. “Use SPF daily” is her first and most vital piece of advice, as sun exposure causes serious inflammation to the skin. She also advises not to pick or pop blemishes, “as breaking the skin can cause inflammation which can lead to hyperpigmentation and scarring. And by touching irritated or blemished skin, you can increase bacteria in the area, leading to more breakouts.” Essentially, you could be creating a vicious cycle. She also advises to be wary of ingredients that might be too harsh for your skin, as they can trigger inflammatory responses in the skin. Lastly, she promotes consistency with your skincare routine: “being consistent and using products that hydrate, brighten and even skin tone while keeping your skin barrier intact is essential in preventing and treatment hyperpigmentation.”

When it comes to your daily skincare, both experts agree that a number of ingredients are perfect to help when it comes to this skin issue, so you can tackle pigmentation from the comfort of your own bathroom…

Best SPF For All Year Round

“When your skin is exposed to the sun without sun protection, it produces more melanin to protect itself from harmful UVA and UVB rays,” says Dr Sturm, “so it’s important to always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen.” Look for anything over SPF 30, like her own Sun Drops. Like hers, Murad’s offering is boosted with other skincare ingredients like antioxidants, with both coming in a super lightweight formula. Lancome’s is just as lovely when it comes to texture, plus they’re all cast-free so suitable for any skin tone. Worried you’re getting the amount wrong? Noble Panacea’s is pre-dosed for you: you can’t go wrong! 


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The Best Dark Spot Products To Treat Hyperpigmentation


If you’re unsure what to look for, reaching for a product that is labelled to help erase or ease dark spots is a good place to start. The lightweight La Prairie White Caviar Light Concentrate Pre-Serum is powered by niacinamide, a peptide and caviar micro-nutrients to help renew, brighten and improve skin texture. Sisley has a nifty pen-like treatment so you can really pinpoint patches, or you can try a serum that will cover all bases, like those from Clinique, Almora Botanica and Dermalogica.  


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Best Vitamin C Skincare For Brightening Skin


Vitamin C is universally regarded as perhaps the prime ingredient in tackling hyperpigmentation. “I’m a huge fan of vitamin C products for pigmentation” says Dr Ali, “as it has multiple benefits for the skin. A great antioxidant, it protects your skin from sun damage, helps produce collagen and therefore helps with pigmentation in various ways.” You’ll find it in lots of formats, from cleansers like 111 Skin’s offering, to - most commonly - serums, like ones from MZ Skin and Elemis. Dr Barbara Sturm is also a fan, with her The Good C Vitamin C Serum formulated to “brighten and even skin tone without damaging the skin barrier.” 


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Best Retinoids For Treating Hyperpigmentation

One way of tackling hyperpigmentation is to use products that will help to increase the cellular turnover and shedding of dead skin cells, says Dr Marwa. One of the gold standards in this area is retinol (or other retinoids). Some skin types can be sensitive to the ingredient, so look for options that are gentler if you’re worried, like Medik8’s R-Retinoate Youth Activating Cream that is packed with things like hyaluronic acid and Vitamin E to soothe and hydrate. Augustinus Bader’s retinol and Paula’s Choice’s are also formulated purposely to reduce the likelihood of a reaction whilst still giving hyperpigmentation a good shift, alongside having wrinkle-reducing benefits too. Another option is La Mer’s deliciously rich night cream, which contains a marine-based retinol alternative, to help rejuvenate skin without irritation. 


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How To Use Acids To Treat Hyperpigmentation


Using an acid-based product, like an AHA (Alpha-hydroxy acid, like lactic acid or glycolic) or BHA (salicylic) will help to ‘peel’ the skin. This sounds scary, but clever formulations mean that this should be a near-invisible process, where dead skin cells are lifted away, revealing the renewed, brighter skin beneath. As with vitamin C, you can find it in some cleansers like Dr Dennis Gross’ (which also happens to contain a good, brightening dose of vitamin C too), or you can apply it via a toner or essence you sweep across the skin, like Biologique Recherche’s lotion. You can also apply a peel, like La Prairie’s, as part of a weekly facial regime, or keep it simple by using it in a serum: Fresh’s is powerful but gentle enough to use every evening as part of your daily routine. 


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The In-Clinic Treatments To Book For Hyperpigmentation

Dr Ali offers a service in-clinic where a scan of the skin can assess the deeper layers to ascertain the type of pigmentation so she can prescribe the correct treatment protocol. She has a range of treatments that can help, “ranging from non-ablative fractional lasers (Resurfx), IPL (intense pulse lights), NDYAG (Carbon peel) laser, or a combination of the two – photofractional (Resurfx and IPL) – a super boost treatment.” Additionally, Dr Ali tends “to prescribe skincare alongside lasers for optimal results.” 

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