How to Master Italian Style

Words by Tony Wilkes

The desire to achieve an Italian aesthetic has been the pursuit of style-minded men since time immemorial. In 1528, Baldassare Castiglione – a diplomat and Papal Nuncio to Rome – published The Book of the Courtier, a guide to achieving Italian sensibility, and arguably the biggest bestseller of the 16th century. His advice? “To practice in everything a certain sprezzatura,” he writes, a quality that “show[s] what is said and done is done without effort and almost without thought.” Ease, nonchalance, “art which does not appear to be art,” – that is, at its core, Italian style.

Return to 2025, and the lesson is largely unchanged. “It never looks like you tried too hard,” Pal Zileri CEO Leo Scordo tells us. “That’s the essence of dressing like an Italian.” The brand, founded near Vicenza in northern Italy, crafts all its pieces either with long-term partners in Quinto Vicentino, or a network of trusted artisans across the country. “In the end, it’s not just what you wear,” Scordo relays, “it’s how you wear it that makes the difference.” Here, we’ve outlined the five principles of sprezzatura to infuse your wardrobe with Italian flair wherever you are.

1. Start with the Fit

“First and foremost,” explains Scordo, “fit is everything. Italian style demands clothing that complements your body – never too tight, never too loose.” Pal Zileri deftly achieves this with its full-canvas blazers like the Vicenza line, made from high-quality fabrics with a natural, fluid drape. Yet, as any Italian will tell you, you can’t beat a visit to a world-class tailor. If a trip to Naples isn’t on your radar, in Menswear on the Second Floor our made-to-measure service is your answer to suiting cut immaculately to your frame – with experts from Pal Zileri, Giorgio Armani, Brioni and more on hand, alongside a choice of fabrics exclusive to Harrods. Speak to an associate in-store to book your appointment.

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2. There’s Power in Restraint

“True Italian style doesn’t shout; it whispers confidence,” says Brioni creative director Norbert Stumpfl. “It’s about harmony. An innate sense of proportion, colour and ease.” Look to neutral and earthy tones like cream, navy and olive – these are not only timeless but will work together in one outfit. Though such pieces may appear simple, they’re constructed with meticulous artistry. A Brioni suit, is tailored in a precise 220-step process requiring 6,000 hand stitches and over 22 hours of work, while the classic Brunello Cucinelli polo shirt is made from cashmere sourced from Mongolia – the softest and rarest in the world.

3. Be Confident with Your Palette

“I always recommend starting with a navy or charcoal suit,” says Pal Zileri’s Leo Scordo, “and then adding a touch of colour to express confidence. Italians aren’t afraid to introduce an unexpected twist, and Pal Zileri is known for its bold palette that somehow always feels elevated and effortless.” The easiest way to incorporate colour is simply as an accent: a silk scarf, tie, a pair of socks, or small additions can enliven a neutral outfit. Alternatively? Go all in. Our collaboration with Eleventy stars a suit in salmon, cut from linen developed exclusively for Harrods, and is handmade in Italy over 10 hours.

4. Mix Smart and Casual

“What sets Italian style apart is the seamless blend of formal and casual,” Scordo adds. “For example, you might wear tailored Pal Zileri trousers with a fine-gauge knitted polo or throw a linen blazer over a T-shirt. It’s elevated but never overdone.” This blend of smart and relaxed makes a wardrobe especially versatile. “[We’re] rethinking the wardrobe with fluidity in mind,” explains Norbert Stumpfl. “Brioni’s AW25 collection softens the codes of formality: suits become versatile, jackets move effortlessly from day to night. It’s about honouring tradition while designing for the pace of contemporary life.”

5. Make the Small Things Count

“Italian style is also about the details,” says Scordo. “Suede loafers, a perfectly placed pocket square. Every element is subtle but intentional.” Luckily, the Italians are also masters of accessories. That may be a handmade loafer by Santoni, a family-run brand synonymous with ‘Made in Italy’ workmanship. Or a classic Panama hat from Borsalino, a new arrival at Harrods, and the oldest handcrafted milliner in Italy. Founded in 1857, it has passed its unique expertise down the generations. “Every detail matters and takes time,” says Alberto, one of Borsalino’s junior artisans. “That’s the true value of what we do.”