Key Watchmaking Materials to Know When Investing

Words by Abigail Gurney-Read

What makes a great watch? No, really: what makes one? It’s a simple question, but one which divides opinion depending on who you ask and the purpose of your investment. Be it 18-karat gold, contemporary carbon fibre or resilient steel, each has its merits. We’re not here to pick sides – this is your guide to the most trusted materials and metals in watchmaking, and just some of the brands that do them well.

GOLD

Jaeger-LeCoultre

For watch collectors and horology enthusiasts alike, a gold watch is the jewel in the crown. So universal is their appeal – with icons spanning sleek women’s timepieces to commanding dials, rich in complications – that it’s not beyond the realms of possibility to declare there’s a gold watch out there for everyone. Among them, Jaeger-LeCoultre has the Midas touch. Since Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, we’ve been celebrating new arrivals to its renowned Reverso family, including this Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in 18-karat pink gold. Beyond the lustre of that signature rectangular case and dial, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artistry is laid bare in the Milanese link bracelet, which plaits 16 metres of pink-gold thread into an intricate mesh known in Italian as pezza and dating to 13th-century Milan. Something of a calling card for La Grande Maison, the blush of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s precious alloy is achieved through clever alchemy of gold, copper and silver – you’ll spot it across several timepieces in its stable including the elegant Rendez-Vous, Master Ultra Thin and Polaris. If ever there was a gold standard, Jaeger-LeCoultre is it.

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CERAMIC

Hublot

Complication, calibre or construction – any watchmaker worth its salt has a signature or two. Ceramic is one of many at Hublot. Since 2005, when the brand released the Big Bang Original with a ceramic bezel, it has been rigorous in its innovation of the material, pioneering techniques and technologies to imbue bold colour and bring its aptly named Magic to the wrist. In 2013, Hublot debuted red ceramic in the Classic Fusion Skeleton Tourbillon, and over the past five years its integrated watches have been available with full ceramic cases. This unwavering vision and pursuit of joy inspires Hublot’s latest release: the Big Bang Unico Summer 2025. A tribute to Mediterranean party hotspots, it’s a searing 42mm chronograph that stars microblasted orange and sky-blue ceramic and delivers all the main-character energy you’d want from a holiday wardrobe. Behind the head-turning style, though, there’s serious substance. With a base of sintered zirconium, Hublot engineers its ceramic for extreme durability, scratch resistance and density, while the Big Bang Unico Summer 2025 can also withstand water depths of 100 metres. Strong in every sense.

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TITANIUM

Bvlgari

Of the myriad headlines to emerge from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, few resonated quite like Bvlgari’s debut on the roster – and with it, a landmark launch: the thinnest tourbillon ever made. That record-breaking timepiece? The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, measuring a staggeringly svelte 1.85mm. At these dimensions, resilience is paramount. Bvlgari achieves this through titanium, favoured in horology circles for its robustness, resistance to corrosion and hypoallergenic qualities. The fact that it’s also lighter weight than stainless steel must prove especially handy when pursuing extreme watchmaking thinness – but aesthetics are just as important, and Bvlgari answers that call with a sandblasting technique to deliver a matte, monochrome finish to the Octo Finissimo that’s undeniably impactful. In true Italian style, it’s equally confident in the company of tailoring or a classic T-shirt and jeans.

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CARBON FIBRE

Panerai

When considering the key materials in fine watchmaking, a traditional mind might turn to gold, stainless steel or platinum. But, at the more unexpected – though no less compelling – end of the spectrum lies carbon fibre. Panerai’s iteration, Carbotech™, is the lightest material in its repertoire, representing a feat of engineering as well as design. Created by compressing thin sheets of carbon fibre at controlled temperatures and bonding them under high pressure with PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone), sheets of Carbotech™ are then layered at alternating orientations to maximise strength, durability and corrosion resistance. Visually, it’s arresting. Thanks to its composite structure of long carbon fibres, Carbotech™ reveals a distinctive yet uniform marbled texture, entirely unique to each timepiece. This is showcased to compelling effect in Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare, which pairs a 47mm Carbotech™ case and bezel with a black carbon dial offset by luminous hour markers and indices.

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PLATINUM

Parmigiani Fleurier

How to define sophistication? So blurred are the lines of formal attire in modern menswear that there’s no longer a presiding convention. Parmigiani Fleurier’s Toric collection was conceived to reflect this nuance – what CEO Guido Terreni credits to a “serene and versatile elegance, meticulously crafted to resonate with the refined essence of today’s discerning individual”. Uncompromising luxury is inherent in Parmigiani Fleurier’s philosophy – a sense of discreet yet absolute elevation, masterfully epitomised in the platinum version of its Toric Petite Seconde. Platinum isn’t immediately obvious to the casual observer, but that’s the point. This ‘if you know you know’ quality is integral to Parmigiani Fleurier’s charm. To wear the Toric is to join an exclusive circle of connoisseurship – in this case, with a platinum membership.

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STAINLESS STEEL

Tudor

A strong watch collection is only as solid as its foundations, and they don’t come hardier than steel. Horology’s bedrock, sporty tool watches like the Tudor Black Bay have rocketed in popularity in recent years, romanticised to the nth degree as timepieces of adventure and adventurers – divers in the case of Tudor’s cornerstone, which references the mid-century models of the brand’s archive. Much can be said for a watch that does away with unnecessary bells and whistles in favour of good, honest mechanics that will stand the test of time. The Black Bay 58 GMT is just such a piece. Steely, enduring and salt of the earth.