The Craft Behind the Harrods Collection: Cashmere

Words by Grace Cain

Machines whirr and clack, the radio comes in comfortingly over the speakers, and Clive Brown banters with a series of people whose working day is being interrupted by an apologetic Harrods photography crew. It’s just another day at the Barrie knitwear factory. “I still tend to treat it like a family business; I like to know everybody,” says Brown, Barrie’s commercial and development director. “Everything we do in this business comes down to people. And – let’s face it – the most important people here are the makers on the factory floor. Without them, nothing happens.”

And if you want makers who really know their cashmere, you’re in the right place. Since it was founded in 1903, the Barrie knitwear factory has been based in Hawick, a small town in the Scottish Borders that is widely considered to be (as the nearby ‘Welcome to Hawick’ sign concisely states) the ‘Home of Cashmere’.

“I think we’re a bit of a hidden gem, perhaps because we’re not very good at marketing ourselves – we expect people to just know that the best knitwear comes from Scotland,” says Brown. “It still amazes me that in this small town, we’re working with the biggest players in the fashion industry.” That roster includes such names as CHANEL (who, having been a client for almost three decades, acquired Barrie in 2012); Thom Browne, Hermès, and now, Harrods.

“I’ve always spoken about Harrods being the window to the world, so it’s been a pleasure for us to be associated,” says Brown. The new men’s and women’s collections that his team are working on during our visit include sweater vests, artfully slouchy cardigans and classic jumpers, all in chic neutral and blue tones. “I think we’re aligned in wanting to give people the best. For us, that means using the best materials and doing things the best way – not the quickest or cheapest way. And if it then carries that Harrods label, people will know that they are buying real quality.”

Brown has worked at Barrie for an impressive 42 years, working his way up via almost every corner of the business – from washing sweaters and quality control, to industrial engineering and sales. Like many of the people who work in the factory, he was brought up in Hawick – but (thanks to reluctant Saturday mornings spent in knitwear factories as a child) he never planned to go into the textile industry himself. However, because he was “too lazy” to go to university (his words), a job offer from Barrie could not be turned down. “It’s worked out reasonably well,” he says.

He’s certainly well-qualified to show us around, taking us on a whistle-stop tour of the technological innovations and artisanal techniques – some of which have been honed over generations – that result in a finished Harrods jumper. The balance between heritage and modernisation seems particularly relevant at the Shima Seiki knitting machines, widely revered for their ability to transform complex patterns into physical elements of a garment that will then go on to be assembled by hand. To Brown’s knowledge, Barrie has the largest collection of these machines in Europe – and the only collection in the UK. “This allows us to be at the cutting edge,” he says. “Then we combine that with traditional hand skills.”

So, everything that leaves the Shima Seiki machines is checked manually by an expert, who will detect any dropped or bad stitches. Details and embellishments are carefully sewn by accomplished craftspeople, and labels are neatly applied by hand. When garments are washed, an experienced machine operator will visually judge the length and type of wash required to adequately soften the cashmere – something that is, these days, unique to the Barrie mill. “Wherever we can, we want to add value,” Brown explains. “It’s not just that we use the best, longest fibres from Mongolia and mainland China. Our customers also want traditional construction and the love that goes into it. We’re creating dreams for people with the product we make; so, for me, it’s important that we bring in a new generation to learn those skills.”

As well as its own training centre in the Borders and a recently opened school in Leicester, Barrie also maintains links with several local colleges and universities. Many of its young hires come via those connections – including Lydia Gough, who has worked on designing and creating some of the prototypes for the new Harrods collection. A site visit during her studies two years ago inspired her to pursue a career at Barrie. “The company is over 100 years old, and we’ve really kept that history alive in what we do,” she says. “I think that’s what makes our pieces special.”

That history is alive in more tangible ways, too – in fact, it’s a key branch of Barrie’s philosophy. Hearing that a workplace is ‘like a family’ may often be construed as a simple platitude – but here, the phrase regularly applies in a literal sense. For example, Morgan Grieve, who grew up locally and tells us (as she diligently attaches a sleeve to a jumper) that her parents both still work here. And then there’s Ellie Douglas, who deftly sews the Harrods label into the neckline of the finished product as she lists several family members who work in different departments – including her grandma. “Teatime conversation is often about work,” she smiles.

“I think the future of the industry is very bright, particularly here at Barrie,” says Brown. “My passion for the product will never leave me, but really, I get the biggest buzz from the preparation we’re doing for the next generation. We don’t worry about this year or the next year; we want to lay a foundation for the next 20 years. I think we’ve got it in a very good place.”